This page is currently in drafting stages. 

Information is incomplete, unedited, and uploaded only for posterity/fulfillment of curiosity of interested parties.

I don't do this anymore because urethane exposure was making me sick, and some of my tools vanished. 

I did promise to tell people how to do it, so, here it is.

Caveats: This is written almost 2 years after I stopped doing this, using notes in my project book, it is as complete of an account as I can provide.

I am not responsible for you destroying your nibs, proceed with caution and PPE. Do not use gold nibs, gold has different adhesion principles, so this information is not applicable.

Materials needed:

- Sandpaper (80grit, 200grit, 400grit)

- Latex (Pebeo brand works great) 

- Brass shims ( 0.005 or 0.003, I prefer something that's a stiff fit and ensures you do not get anything in between the tines.

- Sacrificial scissors, you will need to cut the sandpaper and shims

- Tape (soft tape. important.)

- X-acto knife

- Epoxy (waterproof, marine grade ideal.) (base layer)'

- Mould release

- Modern sealant options: Urethane, waterproof epoxy, UV Resin. 

- Degreaser

- Nitrile gloves

- Respirator with appropriate cartridges, 

- Extensive PPE if working with urethanes, research isocyanates before proceeding. 

List of  "do items":

- Measure insertion depth of fountain pen nib for particular section, tape off insertion region

- Evenly sand the top surface of the nib with 80grit sandpaper. If working on bare steel is desired, sand with 400 grit, prime with acrylic-clear primer skip to painting step. Less durable.

- Reapply tape, leave at least some space forward from insertion depth to ensure full seal on all sides of art. I suggest measuring with a micrometer.

- Insert shim coated in mould release compound, apply latex on feed-contacting face of nib to ensure no edge creep occurs. Allow latex time to cure.

- Degrease with acetone, or professional degreaser

- Apply 'epoxy layer' immediately after, above process exposes the steel and it will rust if left bare. 

- Allow base layer to cure, remove shim, latex etc, may require force/jiggling wash with soap and water, sand with 80 grit, apply primer for paint (acrylic based products only)

- Paint 

- Allow paint 2-3 weeks to fully cure, or bake in dehydrator for at least 24h on low

- Degrease paint with gentle degreaser, insert mould release coated shim, tape off insertion portion of the nib, apply latex to feed facing surface of the nib, apply mold release to tape portion if desired.

- Apply sealant of choice, ensure it is able to properly cure. Cut edge of tape, peel towards root of nib, not towards art. If improper curing has occured, art may peel off at this point.

- Write test